Roger Mimó:

THE ROUTE OF THE THOUSAND KASBAHS

7^th step: from Mhamid to Agdz

From Mhamid to Zagora you must come back following the same route.

From Zagora to Agdz you can also come back on the same road that brought you from Nkob, but it’s preferably the track that runs along the left bank of the Drâa river. The track does not usually entail difficulties, except in rainy season, and many parts are now asphalted.

Among the many ksur emerging in this left bank, we’ll mention Timasla (30º 34.952’ N, 6º 07.942’ W) for its Zaouia of nice facade and its robust earthen minaret. You also will find a Kasbah in Taakilt (30º 36.973’ N, 6º 09.520’ W), that was built from an existing cylindrical tower, not to live in it but to hold meetings and control the region and later used as a Koranic school.

Timasla mosque

The medersa of Taakilt

Once we reached the road of Nkob, you have the option of going to Agdz by the paved road of the left bank or following the national road of the right bank. In the first case, you will discover a spectacular Kasbah in Ait Hamou Ou Said (30º 40.962’ N - 6º 17.112’ W), situated on a rock that allows it to stand up proud above the valley. Nevertheless, its image is more picturesque seeing it from the other side, with the majestic river in the foreground. Built in 1922, it belonged to a representative of El Glaoui and then it passed into the hands of the Moroccan State, which used it for a while as a school before leaving it completely. In 2009-2010 it has been restored by the BMCE Foundation and transformed again into a school.

If you prefer go by the national road, you will see the Kasbah of El Bohali in Igharghar next to the road, still in use, and you will get a better picture over the Kasbah of Ait Hamou Ou Said by a nice pedestrian path from Timidert (30º 40.995’ N, 6º 17.912’ W), a nice Ksar that is being restored by a local association.

Kasbah Ait Hamou Ou Said

Kasbah of El Bohali in Igharghar

Timidert mosque is being restored

In any case, you must move to the left bank later or earlier to visit Tamnougalt (30º 40.505’ N 6º 23.300’ W). This great Ksar has been along centuries the capital of Mezguida tribe and the seat of the Kaid representing the Sultan in the area. Successive Kaids built different Kasbahs, at first within and later outside the Ksar, some of them quite spectacular in its proportions and decoration, unique in southern Morocco.

Ksar Tamnougalt

One of these Kasbahs is now a restaurant with some rooms, while the whole village has benefited from a rehabilitation program funded by the Spanish Cooperation. The Ksar also has been studied by the CERKAS, the Polytechnic University of Catalonia and the Association of Technical Architects of Barcelona, who wrote an interesting report (mentioned in the page "Livres"). The outside Kasbah is impressive for its situation on the top of the hill (30º 40.640’ N - 6º 23.797’ W), but it’s in ruins.

Kasbah of the Kaid Abou Beker

Gate of the Kaid Abderrahmane’s Kasbah

From Tamnougalt to Agdz you can go by the paved road or by a track on the left bank of the river, passing next to the Kasbah of Taliouine (30º 41.874’ N, 6º 25.440’ W), in ruins.

Kasbah of Tiliouine

From the center of Agdz, a local road give you in 2 km to the Kasbah of the Kaid Ali in Aslim (30º 4.774’ N - 6º 26.697’ W), built in 1924 by the Kaid of Tamnougalt. It has some urban influence, including a large riad with galleries around a big courtyard that was full of orange and lemon trees.

Now this Kasbah is inside a camping and contains sketches and documents donated by a German association that assists in the restoration of the monument. Guided visit: 25 DH by person.

Kasbah Kaid Ali In Aslim

From Aslim, a bad track goes to Tizgui, Rbat and other villages of the high Drâa valley, quite picturesque: it’s a little excursion very advisable if you have a ATV.

Ksar Tinirhill

Contact with the author: © Roger Mimó