2nd step: from Skoura to the Dadès valley
The national road runs between Skoura and Quelat Mgouna by a desert
country, with sparse villages and Kasbahs. The only intermediate point where fifteen of them are concentrated is Imassine,
a small oasis full of all kinds of fruit trees, except the palms, that we won’t find from here to Tinghir.
14 km after Imassine, in the point 31º 11.487’ N - 6º 12.950’ W,
a track descends to the right, crosses the Dadès river by a bridge and reaches the village of Aït Ouaddar, where we see two Kasbahs picturesque
because of their location, near the river: the Aït Said one (31º 10.882’ N - 6º 11.282’ W) and the Aït Ouahi one
(31º 11.043’ N - 6º 11.662’ W).
Kasbah Aït Said |
Kasbah Aït Ouahi |
Some kilometers before reaching Quelat Mgouna, we can see across the river
the ruins of the fortress that gave its name to this town and, near them, the Kasbah Aït Fadil (31º 13.871’ N -
6º 08.508’ W), striking and very well conserved.
The high Mgoun valley or "Rose valley"
In the center of Quelat Mgouna we take a paved road to the left. Son we
discover the ruins of the Ksar Talmout of Mirna, in the middle of the fields (31º 15.378. N - 6º 07.930. W), and a little
beyond the amazing Kasbah of Mirna or Tighremt n’Oufella n’Mirna on a rock (31º 15.549’ N - 6º 82.626’ W).
Ksar Mirna |
Kasbah Mirna |
Then, this secondary road goes up the Mgoun valley, also known as "Rose Valley",
through numerous villages, as Azrou and Tourbist. From Azrou, a track on the left allows the access to Tazrout, where two very tall
Kasbahs rise.
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In Bou Taghrar stands, among others, the Kasbah Aït Oumergden (31º 23.457’ N -
6º 07.937’ W), impressive in its proportions and very rich in decoration. You can visit it (10 DH).
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Further, a track that emerges on the right, not good for small cars, goes to
Imi n’Ouaka, that has a large number of Kasbahs in a wonderful landscape.
Imi n’Ouaka
In Alemdoun, another track in the right side goes to Amajgag
and from there a new paved road continues through Imeskar and a three thousand meters pass to the high Mgoun valley and the Bougamés valley.
Soon after, a last track on the left side allows us to enter in
Rbat, where we’ll admire the old Kasbah of the family Oumergdal, open to visit (31º 24.868’ N - 6º 12.693’ W).
As for the paved road, it finishes in Aït Toumert, after passing by the Aït Lala Kasbah, in Aït Khalifa.
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Between Quelat Mgouna and Boumaln Dadès, the road always runs along the valley,
where fields, population and the Kasbahs are concentrated.
The first one we must mention is El Goumt Kasbah (31º 17.444’ N - 6º 02.578’ W), a set of two buildings that belonged
to El Glaoui family, then moving to the State hands. Unfortunately, it remains closed to the public and it gradually degrades unless
the competent authorities make any effort to avoid it, despite reports they have since 1975 about its chances of tourist exploitation.
A little beyond Souk Khemis (the thursday market), we find at right the
Kasbah Aït Kassi (31º 18.695’ N - 6º 01.460’ W), announced as "guesthouse and berber art museum".
Built in several phases between 1920 and 1950, it’s worthy of a visit because it is very well preserved and it contains traditional
objects, including an interesting collection of Berber jewelry.
This happy initiative of its owners contrasts with the indifference of the State for El Goumt one.
After, in Agafai, we see the nice Kasbah of El Haj Moha Ou
Abdessalam (31º 20.240’ N - 6º 00.495’ W). It was build in the beginning of the twentieth century; it has an outsider gallery with
arches and many decoration in walls and towers. Now it’s unfortunately abandoned, but it has not yet begun to fall.
In Aït Bou Allal, on the contrary, the Kasbah of El
Haj Moha ou Brahim (31º 21.984’ N - 5º 59.793’ W), is still inhabited and well preserved, although much less picturesque than the
previous. Other Kasbahs on this step are a little far from the road, none of them being specially interesting.
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In Boumalne Dadès, we find the ruins of the old Ksar Aït
Idir and, near them, the Kasbah Aït Ouzza, one of the tallest in the region, with 18 meters.
It is in good condition because it’s still inhabited and, in principle , we
will just admire its image from outside.
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The high Dadès valley
From the center of Boumalne emerges a track practicable with any vehicle,
which traces the Dadès valley by the left bank of the river, to Slilo. There stands the Kasbah of Kaid Mimoun
(31º 23.356’ N - 5º 59.144’ W), that has five floors and is on sale.
To the rest of the villages in the valley you can arrive by a well-paved road that goes up to Msemrir by a beautiful mountain landscape
with canyons, gorges and curious formations of conglomerate.
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The first Kasbah in this route is placed opposite the village of Ighrem Melloul, in Aït Moutad
(31º 24.804’ N - 6º 00.153’ W). It was built in 1939 by Mohadach Ou El Haj, who was in this moment the Khalifa of
El Glaoui in this area. It’s the only in all the southern Morocco that has five corner towers instead of the usual four ones and this is probably due
to the need to adapt to the ground, because it was built on the edge of a cliff. It is open for public visitation by paying an entrance and its interior
surprise by the urban influence, with a large central courtyard and some arcades covered by carved plaster. From the terrace you have a panoramic view over the valley. |
In Aït Larbi are concentrated three
Kasbahs from late nineteenth century, with very rich ornamentation. Its landscape increases further its artistic value, offering one of the
most spectacular pictures of the entire region. The Aït Khoya Ali one (31º 27.445’ N - 6º 58.299’ W) is open to visitors.
We found the next Kasbah, very simple, in Aït Idir.
Then we go into the Dadès gorges and, when the valley widen again, we see at left the Kasbah of Imdiazen, neatly decorated and very well
preserved. It can only be seen from outside, because its owners do not live there or nearby.
There is also a Kasbah in Aït Amer and two small ones in
Tighadouine, a beautiful village that climbs the mountain side. From this point, the architectural interest of the
valley greatly reduced, to Msemrir. In this town are the ruins of Ighrem Akedim and a small Kasbah
on sale.
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Contact with the author:
© Roger Mimó
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