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The rock
The rock of Todra Gorge is an ocher calcite very hard, rugged, compact and abrasive.
The quality of this rock, added to the scenery of the entourage, attracted a growing number of climbers from around the world during
the last four decades.
The difficulty
One way of degree 3 is located in the north edge. The rest is from 5+ to 8b, but most
ways are VI and VII. Their length is between 25 meters and 300 meters.
The seasons
In the Todra Gorges you can climb all the year, just you may choose the most suitable
area in each season. These that are inside the big gorge aren't recommended in winter but very pleasant in summer. For winter,
the morning is preferable the area at the entrance to the gorge or the cliff on the right bank after the release of the big gorge;
in the afternoon, the cliff in the left bank of the same area is more sunny.
The areas
Nearly thirty areas are distributed along 2 km between El Mansour hotel and the
Small Gorge; after it, we find still a few others a little further. These are the most important:
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El Mansour Beach
This area is opposite to El Mansour Hotel. Facing the
southeast, it is sunny in the morning and has a beautiful view of the palm-grove. The height of the cliff is 240 m. There are
short and long routes. Some of them leave in the river. The descent is...
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Aiguille du gué (Ford needle)
Needle of 80 m situated behind El Mansour Hotel, in the west bank.
Beautiful views are obtained of the gorges and the palm-grove. Descent by rappel or...
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Pilier du Couchant
Visible from afar, this pillar is just after the ford, on the other
side of the river. It is oriented towards the west and often not sunny. The routes are long and very interesting, with...
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Dalle des Hollandais
Area found shortly before arriving at Les Roches Hotel, with long routes.
The rock is very hard and there is no sun. A rope of 60 meters is required. There tourist buses presence cause some troubles,
such as...See the topos
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Satanic area
This is the last area found before reaching Les Roches hotel. Facing west,
it is not sunny. Descend by...
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Meuk area, right bank
Area located in the narrowest point of the gorge, near the cave. It is
also called Gorges Exit. It is very cold. Existing routes are old, but there is still the possibility of..
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Meuk area, west bank
Area located in the narrowest point of the gorge, around the house of
the generator. Facing west, it is all the day in the shade and extremely cold because of the air flow. This is where the first 8a
in Africa was...
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The gardens
Area located at the exit of the gorge, on the fields of alfalfa and
wheat with some palm trees. It is sunny. A rope of 45 m is necessary for...
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Corridor n'Aït Ba Ali or Van Gülich area
The corridor n'Aït Ba Ali, also known as Van Gülich area, is situated opposite the
exit of the gorge, at left. It is very high and sunny in the morning. You get a nice view of the gorges. There are still possibilities to...
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The white trail
This ocher wall is characterized by a clearly visible white trail. Facing
southwest, it is very high and it has a lot of sun. Twenty new routes...
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The Sacred Fishes wall
This great wall is very high, located on the point where the road cross
the river. It can be reached by an approximation track. The routes are quite long and difficult. It faces south-east, with lots of
sun. This is one of the most famous...
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Totxo Tiana
This is a stone block at the foot of the Sacred Fish wall, not far from
the point where the road crosses the ravine. Facing south-east, it is...
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The Chaos
It is a small block of stone at the foot of the Sacred Fish wall.
It is located just at the edge of the ravine after the ford. It is ideal for...
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The Small Gorge, right bank
Area located 2 km far from the hotels, where the road crosses again the
river. It is known by the locals with the name of Amarsit. There are routes for all levels, some of them...
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The Small Gorge, west bank
Area situated 2 km far from the hotels, next to the road, just before
crossing the ravine. There are routes for all levels. It is one of the most popular areas today for...
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